SENSORY JOURNAL 007: Femininity
•Posted on February 13 2024
An ode to femininity (in menswear!).I love fashion weeks and catching glimpses of new collections, but I've never been one to glamorize luxury fashion houses. I don't follow them too closely, rather I like to see what designers at all levels are presenting in their shows. Fashion to me has always been about feeling and identity, and as an introvert I've used fashion my entire life as a form of self expression. As I get older, I'm finding ways to have more fun with fashion, not take it so seriously, and also appreciate some fashion as art, even if I don't see it as something I would wear personally (I.e. the Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 collection that took the world by storm).
This season (it's Spring but the shows we are watching are Fall 2024 collections for those who live outside of the fashion calendar), it was the Menswear shows that caught my eye and grabbed my attention! The Margiela show felt like a perfectly represented Dystopian Renaissance, which I think might be partly why it resonated so deeply with so many, but I actually interpret a wider, common theme in these menswear shows. And it starts with a touch of the feminine.
I believe the wider state of the world will always be reflected in fashion, and while we are watching so much harm happening at the hands of men in power, it is no surprise to me that we are seeing more soft feminine styles appear. It is the balance that is needed right now, and as someone with a deep love for androgynous fashion, I am all for it. Since I'm hoping for more joy and positivity this year, I thought I would share some looks that I loved from this year's menswear shows!
Perhaps my favorite of the shows was the Dior Menswear FW24 show. This show had probably the most overt themes of femininity from short shorts and onesies, to deep and low cut tops, sheer layers, soft socks and pastel ballet flats. But it was balanced perfectly with masculine textiles like rich leather, neutral suiting and structured twill. This collection struck the perfect balance for me and was done in such a fresh way that made it believable.
Another favorite was Dries Van Noten Menswear FW24 show. Soft colors mixed with tailored neutrals, cinched waists, unique draping and layering. It had common elements you'll often find in women's shows but executed in such a great way for menswear. A highlight here is the contrast in textiles within the layering of each outfit. Such great textures and silhouettes to explore.
Other shows I loved for similar and different reasons were Lemaire and Louis Vuitton Menswear FW24 shows. I love seeing male models walking in womenswear shows, and just as equally I love seeing female models walking in menswear shows. I think it really shows how versatile a collection can be and both of these collections did that. I loved the Monochromatic simplicity and wearability of the Lemaire show, while I love the attention to every decadent detail in the Louis Vuitton show. Yet I felt like they both still evoked a familiarity of comfort and travel in their looks. Though different from each other, I found myself going through every detail of both collections and appreciating it all.
Honorable mention also goes to the ACCESSORIES in these shows, particularly again to Lemaire and Louis Vuitton who both showed a chain version of a bolo tie which is my new obsession! Bags were a big focus in the mens shows, and I loved the focus on handbags, duffels, and extra large sacks that felt made for life-on-the-go in an "I'm not afraid to wear a fancy bag" type of way. Also, I can't believe the sunglasses from Pharrell's Louis Vuitton shows haven't gotten more attention, because I think they are all fantastic and I've honestly felt bored by sunglasses on the market for some time now. It really is all in the details!
I'm ending with this one just for fun! Because these looks from Balmain Menswear FW24 show immediately gave Hollywood, the character from the 1987 movie Mannequin! Fun fact: my aunt had Mannequin and Girls Just Wanna Have Fun double taped on a VHS that I would watch every time I would visit, and I thought Hollywood's merchandiser character was so iconic! This movie might have unconsciously informed my life in more than one way, so I'm here for the tribute! Also, maybe sunglasses haven't been cool since 1987?!
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